Nelson de Hoyos is nothing if not a contemplative guy giving his food thought and intention in development, preparation and plating. The opening of Nelson and Leigha de Hoyos’ restaurant, Pergola, gave that statement the footing that takes it from an opinion to a fact.
The Aug. 19 soft opening at 2537 N. Pleasantburg Drive was a who’s who of Greenville’s food-and-beverage scene. If you were a longstanding restaurateur, you were there. If you were an influencer known for dishing out the Upstate’s best bites, you were there. If you were a local beverage formulator, you were there. If you were a lowly food writer chasing the next column, you were there – which is fun because that means you get to have dinner in a restaurant with just you and your friends.
Our reservation was at 5:45 p.m. just before the crowd rolled in and just enough time to order a couple of cocktails: The Song of the South and Bare Necessities. The Song of the South was everything a rum cocktail should be: a firm hint of hogo imparted by The Funk Rum, sweet potato, lemon and mint. It’s a bright but unmistakably boozy cocktail over crushed ice with an orange hue.
The first we noticed was the impeccable open-handed service by staff – swift but not rushed. Open-handed service is becoming more common but is still woefully under-provided. On the rare occasion you see it consistently, it’s worth noting.
De Hoyos teased his wagyu pastrami development in a July 2026 interview and made it into an entree and croquettes. We went for the croquettes, which had textured layers and toasty, flavored profile. The protein was cooked into gooey gruyere, parmesan and local potatoes. In kind with his father’s artistry, de Hoyos’ tiradito is colorful and bright, calibrated in flavor and color theory.
Your intrepid Weekly Dish writer has been trying to cut back on wine because one goes down too easy, which tends to lead to three. However, I am a firm believer in pairing like with like, so I went for the duck breast with sweet potato gnocchi, which was savory, tender, and juicy.
It was a perfect soft-open experience for the new North Pleasantburg Drive restaurant. Because no soft opening can go without a bump, the hood system experienced some difficulties, leading to slightly smoky dining areas. In a restaurant where everything was planned to the T and in a room full of food-and-beverage professionals or veterans, the minor issue was a fun reminder that hospitality and camaraderie always prevail.
Bite-sized bit:
Vickie Zambrano announced she will sell Curean. Zambrano founded the Mediterranean restaurant on Greenville’s Main Street in 2023, bringing with her deep mauves, make-your-own charcuterie, roasted proteins and shareable cuisine. She made the announcement on social media Aug. 27. “Cheers to 2.5 years of me + Curean. Cheers to bootstrapping, building and selling a restaurant. Cheers to the literal blood, sweat and tears I poured into this place. Cheers to the lessons, the risks, the wins and even the really hard days that shaped me along the way,” the post said. At the age of 32, she’s sold her first business. Cheers to you, Vickie.
